2009 Martinelli Syrah Zio Tony Ranch Gianna Marie

The estate’s 2009 Syrah Zio Tony Ranch saturates the palate with masses of dark blue/black fruit. A huge, voluptuous wine, the 2009 is all about texture. At the same time, though, there isn’t a whole lot of varietal character. Ultimately, the 2009 is a wine of silkiness and layers of flavor that continue to build with considerable energy and focus. Melted road and graphite are some of the notes that add complexity on the finish. Today, the 2009 is young, young, young. It will be interesting to see where this goes over the coming years. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. Ask the locals in Sonoma who the most meticulous farmers are in the region, and one answer comes back with astonishing frequency -- Martinelli. Originally from Lucca, Italy, Giuseppe Martinelli and his family were attracted to hillside sites that reminded them of their native Tuscany. Ironically, many of the locals thought those places were too steep and hard to work, but time has proven Martinelli had a keen understanding of sites. Today, these are recognized as some of the finest vineyards in California. The Martinelli family still sells most of their grape to other wineries, but they also vinify and bottle a small amount of their production. As always, these are big, rich wines built on opulence. The Martinelli approach seems to work best with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. I find the Syrahs less interesting, as Martinelli’s philosophical approach to harvest very late seems to blur some of the differences among vineyards, which is a shame. That is especially evident in a vintage like 2009, which yielded plenty of richness on its own. The 2010 Zinfandels are also inconsistent, but here it is the huge heat spikes late in the season that compromised the crop and the overall quality of the vintage. Martinelli lost 50% of their Zinfandel crop that year. The resulting wines, while excellent when taken on their own, aren’t quite at the level long-time Martinelli fans expect. The Martinelli wines remain unique within the broad landscape that is Sonoma. At their best, these wines are stunning. Tel. (707) 525-0570

Vivid ruby. Complex, pungent aromas of blackberry, Indian spices, licorice and fresh herbs; opens very slowly. Then juicy and intense on the palate, with densely packed cassis and dark berry flavors complicated by licorice and violet pastilles. This deeply concentrated, very young wine finishes with broad, velvety tannins and lingering spiciness.

A blockbuster Syrah, the 2009 Martinelli Syrah Zio Tony Ranch "Gianna Marie", a blend of 100% Syrah aged in 90% new French oak, possesses a ripe, exuberant bouquet of black currants, raspberry, bacon fat, olive tapenade, and assorted floral-like characteristics. Similarly styled on the palate, with a full-bodied, decadent, yet seamless and light palate feel, this beautifully textured 2009 has no hard edges, excellent concentration, and plenty of length on the finish. It is already approachable, yet should evolve gracefully for upwards of a decade.