2006 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Frere et Soeur Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru

The Meo-Camuzet 2006 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras Frere et Soeur was harvested early because, says Meo, in this site sugars were rising fast and the skins were precarious, which I would guess explains why it tastes more "late harvest" in character. Dried cherries and cocoa powder dominate on the nose and palate, but there is an attractive, sweetly floral, lily-like note as well. Rich and broad on the palate, this quickly reveals an abundance of slightly chewy tannins, but they in no way spoil the cherry, chocolate, and floral sweetness of its finish. Jean-Nicolas Meo harvested 2006 fruit between 13.25-14.25% potential alcohol, slightly higher than in 2005. Except for a few instances of vineyards touched by hail, he said, he vinified in essentially the same way (including the same percentages of new barrels) as he had in 2005. Meo notes that the pHs of his 2006s ended up quite high after their malos, and while this contributes to their sense of softness and generosity, I sometimes find these wines wanting for some vivacity or primary juiciness. (I have appended to the description of Meo's negociant bottlings the words "Frere et Soeur" that appear underneath "Meo-Camuzet" on their labels.) Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25