2022 Sphaerics Chardonnay if and only if

The 2022 Chardonnay If And Only If is the first release from Sphaerics. Although this information doesn't appear on the label until the 2023 vintage, it comes from the Jackson Family Wines Upper Barn Vineyard—the original parcel of Wente selection planted on AXR rootstock in 1982 on the company's Alexander Mountain Estate. Vines are widely spaced and sit at 1,800 feet in elevation. Historically, this fruit was sold to Marcassin and Peter Michael, but in 2010, it was allocated to Jackson Family Wines' Stonestreet property; this is the first time since then that it has been offered to another winery. The grapes were harvested on September 5, just before the intense Labor Day heat wave. The wine was barrel fermented and underwent full malolactic conversion. It was matured for 11 months in 70% new oak plus an additional five months in stainless steel and bottled in January of 2024. The nose is very pretty and complex: white peach and lemon peel are complemented by nuances of matchstick and glossy new oak. The full-bodied palate is explosive. It reveals layer after layer of stone and tropical fruit. Its luxurious, silky texture is foiled by mouthwatering acidity, and it has a very long, dynamic finish. It’s incredibly expressive straight from the bottle but offers the concentration and structural balance to mature in the cellar for at least a decade. 202 cases were made.

The 2022 Chardonnay If And Only If comes from the Alexander Mountain Estate Vineyard and pours a bright medium yellow color. It’s lifted and ripe, with a touch of flinty reduction, as well as notes of golden apples, baking spice, honeyed citrus, and poached pear. Full-bodied, it retains good freshness in its ripe, generous style, with a supple, rounded mouthfeel, a pleasing waxy texture, notes of hazelnut, and a long and mouthwatering, saline finish. This opulent but well-balanced wine has a lot to offer and should drink well over the next 8-10 years. The 2022 was the inaugural vintage and sole bottling for Sphaerics founders Brian Ball of Skipstone and his wife Laura Jones, who is the winemaker. (Laura was assistant winemaker at Aubert from 2017-2022.) I was highly impressed with this rich, textural Chardonnay and encourage readers who enjoy the style of Aubert to check this wine out.