2020 Dönnhoff Felsenberg Felsentürmchen Riesling Grosses Gewächs
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Tasting notes
The 2020 Felsenberg GG is deep, intense and complex on the pure and elegant, well-defined and slightly flinty nose. Pure, intense and juicy on the palate, this is a crystalline, refined and salty Felsenberg with great terroir expression and length, even though the wine is still puristic or even ascetic in the finish. Not as charmingly fruity as Crusius’s interpretation but with the same length and tension. 13% alcohol. Tasted at the domain in July 2021 and again six weeks later in Wiesbaden during the GG tastings.
Critic scores
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Jancis Robinson MW
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
The Felsentürmchen is nowhere near ready yet. Neither will it ever be a crowd-pleaser. Grandseigneur Helmut himself called it masculine, which must not be interpreted as for men only. It’s rock hard though, encapsulating the pristine purity of minerality. It’s the end of my journey in search of the holy grail of dry Riesling. I always knew it had to be austere, craggy and rugged. (MS)
If you are a terroir fundamentalist, then this enormous depth of smoky and wild-herb character will light your fire, but otherwise approach with caution. With the second and third sip you feel the attractive, grapefruity side of the wine. Then comes the paradox. There is also a touch of grapefruit-pith bitterness at the radically mineral finish, and this adds to the excitement. From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Drink or hold.