2007 Domaine Pierre Morey Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

Ripe, musky nose hints at truffle and white flowers, with the fruit currently in the background. Then opulent but imploded in the mouth, with lemon and peach flavors shut down by strong mineral grip on the back. This wine offers terrific depth of flavor but shows almost painful acidity today. Best on the mounting finish, which saturates the palate with a whiplash of flavor. This too needs at least a decade in the cellar. If the Perrieres will make a perfect accompaniment to a classic grilled fish dish, this one should pair well with lobster or volaille a la creme

(from 45-year-old vines that produced a low crop level of 33 hectoliters per hectare) Musky, reticent aromas of peach and nut oil. Fat, ripe and peachy, with less mineral grip than the Perrieres. This boasts more volume but comes across as less expressive today, with a slightly bitter edge of acidity on the back. This will be slow to evolve. But then this wine always needs time, says Morey, who told me that the hot 1989 growing season was the only vintage of Batard that was good to drink from the start.