2015 Ramey Chardonnay Rochioli Vineyard

First single-vineyard wine from this vineyard. Winter 2015 was the warmest on record, resulting in early budbreak. Cooler, wetter weather in spring months slowed development, however, leading to a challenging, extended bloom period. The resulting uneven fruit set translated to a small crop and smaller berries with very concentrated flavours. The very early budbreak resulted in an equally early harvest. Whole clusters pressed gently for phenolic delicacy. Native-yeast fermentation and full native malolactic conversion take place in barrel, with lees stirring. After ageing 20 months in 23% new François Frères French oak barrels, this was fined and settled in tank following the next harvest. It was then bottled without filtration. Heavy bottle. Subtle and complex aromas of fine lemon and grapefruit all tangled up with oak spice and leesy/mealy savour. Smells as if it is going to taste really creamy. On the palate this is a real beauty. Despite its richness and 14.5% alcohol, it is light on its feet, refreshing and full of life and freshness. Perfect harmony and cool, spicy length. Open yet precise, enjoyable now but still with further ageing potential. (JH)