2011 Carlisle Grüner Veltliner Steiner Vineyard

Mike Officer continues to source some remarkable Zinfandel vineyards, make a few other miscellaneous wines, and has even added a gorgeous dry white wine to his portfolio, the 2011 Gruner Veltliner Steiner Vineyard. (Officer was inspired by the Gruner Veltliners of one of Austria’s greatest domaines, F. X. Pichler.) After tasting this cuvee during my tasting trip, I ordered it at a restaurant off River Road called The Farmhouse. This naked effort did not see any malolactic, was fermented and aged in stainless steel, and achieved 14.1% alcohol. A delicious example of dry white wine, it exhibits hints of apricot marmalade, delicate peach and citrus blossoms. Medium to full-bodied, dry, crisp and flavorful, I have no idea how long it will last, but it is irresistible at present. Carlisle Winery’s Mike Officer and his wife are one of the wonderful stories in the wine world. Going from a part-time home winemaker, to turning out some of his beloved Zinfandels, to becoming one of the two or three leading guardians of old vine Zinfandel in Northern California, Mike Officer was so good at making wine that he changed careers and wine consumers are the beneficiaries. The single vineyard Zins are absolutely remarkable. Everyone who loves Zinfandel should be on Carlisle’s mailing list, the wines are primarily available only from the winery. Sadly, Mike Officer is not making as much Syrah as he used to given the difficult marketplace for this varietal. That’s a shame, as great Syrahs are truly magnificent wines. Tel. (707) 566-7700

(sourced from vines planted in 2007; this is the first release for this wine): Pale gold. Vibrant aromas of lemon, dusty minerals and pungent herbs. Penetrating acidity adds tension to ripe citrus fruit and anise flavors that gain heft with aeration. Closes dry and spicy, with strong cut and a hint of bitter lemon pith.