1999 Bollinger Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises
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Tasting notes
We began with the 1999 Vieilles Vignes Française from Bollinger, disgorged in July 2008. It was an interesting opener. I must confess that I found this bottle more oxidative than I expected. Grilled walnut, pressed flowers and ginger spring up on the nose, the palate is intense with a fine bead of acidity. That oxidative element is quite powerful, and I find it rather distracting, especially compared to the purity expressed by the 2000 that blew me away a couple of years earlier. I wonder if there are better bottles out there?
Critic scores
Neal Martin
Allen Meadows, Burghound
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The 1999 Vieilles Vignes Françaises is simply stunning. Layers of perfumed red raspberries, flowers and spices flow onto the palate with breathtaking beauty. The mousse is exceptionally fine, as is everything about this wine. Although the wine possesses superb density and richness, it remains light on the palate and supremely graceful. This bottle was disgorged in July 2008.
The 1999 Vielles Vignes Francaises is simply stunning. Layers of perfumed red raspberries, flowers and spices flow onto the palate with breathtaking beauty. The mousse is exceptionally fine, as is everything about this wine. Although the wine possesses superb density and richness, it remains light on the palate and supremely graceful. This bottle was disgorged in July, 2008. Under the direction of Chef de Caves Mathieu Kauffmann, Bollinger produces one of the most consistent lineups in Champagne.Bollinger is one of the handful of larger firms that manages to put out consistently high quality wines despite its size. This estate based in Ay is probably best known to the public through its long association with the James Bond films, which is quite possibly one of the most successful product placement campaigns of all time. Despite the show biz glamor that has inextricably become part of the Bollinger mystique, at their best these are serious wines with significant aging potential. The low-dosage R.D. (recently-disgorged) series can be tremendous, and the Vielles Vignes Francaises, made from pre-phylloxera Pinot Noir vines, is one of Champagne's most exotic bottlings. The estate favors neutral oak barrels for the aging of its top wines. One of the most unique aspects of this estate is that the reserve wines are aged in magnum, rather than in tank, which is the prevailing custom in the region. Bollinger's back labels are quite informative, but it would be nice to see disgorgement dates as well on the non-vintage wines. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
About the producer
Bollinger is one of the most renowned and coveted Champagne Houses in the world, famous for its Pinot-Noir-dominant wines, in particular La Grande Année and the rare Vieilles Vignes Françaises (from pre-phylloxera vines).