2009 Copain Pinot Noir Kiser En Haut

The 2009 Pinot Noir Kiser En Haut is all rose petals, dark red cherries, spices and licorice. The wine boasts tremendous depth in a weightless style that is undeniably appealing. Layers of aromatics are woven throughout in this polished, utterly impeccable wine. There is an energy and vitality to the Kiser En Haut that is remarkable. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2019. This set of wines from Copain and proprietor Wells Guthrie was among the most exciting I tasted from Sonoma this year. Guthrie has decided to release his 2010 Pinots before his 2009s, as he thinks the 2010s will drink better earlier, owing to their mid-weight structures. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010 Pinots, as they had just been bottled at press time. The Pinots are made with fully de-stemmed fruit and are aged in French oak barrels, approximately 25% new. Guthrie uses 50-100% whole clusters for his Syrahs. These are some of the most refined, subtle wines being made in Sonoma today. Stylistically, the wines are a bit more restrained than they have been in the past, as the fruit is now being picked around 23 Brix as opposed to 24 or 24.5, as was the norm a few years back. Guthrie describes 2009 as a cool vintage with a late set but otherwise even ripening for both Pinot and Syrah, with no late rains during the final phase of ripening. Vintage 2010 was much more challenging. Rain and very cold weather were pretty much a constant the entire year. Frost, rain during flowering and a cold summer lowered yields dramatically. Achieving full ripeness was much more of a challenge in 2010 and some of the wines were lightly chaptalized. Tel. (707) 541-7474

Bright red. High-pitched red and dark berry aromas are complicated by fresh violet, lavender and cinnamon. Strikingly fresh and mineral-driven, offering concentrated but energetic black raspberry and spicecake flavors and a sexy undertone of candied flowers. The spiciness lingers on the long, gently sweet finish, which strongly echoes the red berry and mineral notes. I like this wine's finesse.