2010 Dehlinger Cabernet Sauvignon Estate

(made entirely from fruit grown in Dehlinger's Hilltop vineyard; raised in roughly 50% new oak): Inky purple. Powerful, spice-accented cherry, cassis, vanilla and pipe tobacco aromas, with a licorice nuance gaining strength with air. Juicy and focused, offering sappy black and blue fruit flavors along with suggestions of candied lavender and bitter chocolate. Supple tannins add grip to the impressively persistent finish, which leaves blueberry and floral pastille notes behind. Dehlinger told me that these vines were planted in 1982.

Although the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon is still recovering from its recent bottling, it appears to have outstanding potential. Black cherries, freshly cut flowers, cloves and mint all add considerable complexity. Today, the tannins are quite dominant, so readers should plan on cellaring the 2010 for at least a few years. There is serious depth and power here. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Tom and Eva Dehlinger's wines stand out for many reasons, including their very fair prices. This year I thought the Syrahs were particularly of note. Yields have been down in the last few years because of a conversion back to cane pruning, but with 2011 yields are up to a bit higher than normal. The Dehlinger wines are beautiful, full of character and richly deserving of a broader audience. Tel. (707) 823-2378