2017 Josef Spreitzer Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Erstes Gewächs
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Tasting notes
Spreitzer's 2017 Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Rheingau Riesling Trocken "GG" displays a clear, deep and intensely aromatic bouquet of ripe stone fruits intertwined with nutty, earthy and spicy gravelly notes. Full-bodied, fresh and vital on the lean and mineral palate, this is an elegant and beautifully balanced Wisselbrunnen with remarkable finesse and lingering salinity.
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Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Like its vintage 2016 counterpart, this weighs-in at 13% alcohol; but while that translates into body, there is no heat or roughness. Walnut oil piquancy, browned butter savor, along with tang of pear skin and white peach near the core are already intimated in the nose, and their reemergence on the expansive but firm palate is an occasion for salivation and lip-licking. Hints of smoky black tea add further intrigue and complexity to the penetratingly-sustained, stimulatingly bright and admirably clear finish.
This vineyard has very pure underground water that the old vines are tapping into. Shockingly linear, as if the wine had been drawn up with a ruler and a set square and then set in stone. The wine faces you, head on, without a glimmer of tenderness. Lime and salt and quinine. (TC)
Lovely peaches in the nose, then a great balance of ripeness, medium to full body and elegant acidity on the palate and a long, very mineral finish. Drink or hold.