2005 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Frere et Soeur Nuits-Saint-Georges Argillas 1er Cru

From a site high above Nuits-St.-Georges, only a tiny portion of which is rated Premier Cru (and includes what Meo has on contract) comes the 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Argillats. It displays bright black raspberry fruit, orange zest, vanilla, chalk and wet stone mineral notes, with a marrowy, meaty undertone. The brightness, transparency and minerality in the finish are quite striking, reflecting a cool site, and a fresh berry edge never leaves. The wine should be even more interesting in 5-7 years. Between the effects of drought and of localized hail (in May, before it could effect quality) Jean-Nicolas Meo reported one of his smallest-ever harvests. His production, however, is being boosted these days by a range of negociant wines under the label “Meo-Camuzet Frere et Soeur” (marked “F&S” in the listing above). The top wines had been assembled in tank and sulfured in preparation for bottling, and were suffering a bit on account of this. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25.