2009 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir 4-Barrel

The 2009 Pinot Noir 4 Barrel is initially rather intense and powerful, but then turns decidedly more elegant with time in the glass. Dark cherries, plums, licorice, mint and spices are woven together nicely in this plush, inviting wine. Floral and spiced notes reappear on the finish, adding quite a bit of lift. In 2009 winemaker Shane Finley used lots from Gap’s Crown, Koplen, Pisoni and Kanzler for the 4 Barrel, with approximately 25% whole clusters. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Kosta Browne is one of the great American success stories of the last decade. The story begins when longtime friends Dan Kosta and Michael Browne discover a shared passion for Pinot Noir while working together at a local restaurant. They start with a tiny amount of homemade Pinot Noir, grow gradually, acquire some financing along the way, work their tails off and one day the mailing list requires a five year wait for the vineyard designated wines. Of course I am simplifying, but Kosta Browne is the type of entrepreneurial success that can only happen in this country. Over the years, as the winemaking approach has developed, the wines have become much more finessed than they used to be. Toast levels have come down. Some lots are fermented in open top wood vats, an approach that seems promising based on the wines I tasted. A number of the wines were fermented with whole clusters, as noted below. The Kosta-Browne Pinots are notable for their exuberant fruit. The wines are incredibly attractive when young, which is when I prefer to drink them. Tel. (707) 823-7430

Deep ruby. Pungent aromas of dark berries, gingerbread, minerals and musky herbs. Fleshy cherry compote and blackberry flavors gain freshness with air, picking up notes of cola and candied rose. At once rich and energetic, finishing with noteworthy energy and lingering spiciness. This really hangs onto the palate. This vintage's blend is a barrel each from Gap's Crown, Koplen, Kanzler and Garys' vineyards.