2010 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir 4-Barrel

The 2010 Pinot Noir 4 Barrel is one of the more bombastic wines in this lineup. It will appeal most to readers who like exuberant Pinots. Plums, black cherries, mint, licorice and flowers all jump from the glass. Personally, I gravitate towards the subtler wines in the range, but I am sure many readers will love the 4 Barrel. It is classic K-B. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Kosta-Browne is one of those places that always seems to be buzzing with a positive vibe that is hard to fully describe, but that I am sure informs these exuberant, deeply expressive wines. I arrived for my tasting as the winery was completing their move to new, spacious digs at The Barlow, a large facility food/wine industrial park facility in Sebastopol that also houses Pax Mahle's winery plus a number of restaurants, markets, cheese shops, coffee houses and sellers of other local food specialties that will move in shortly. The Barlow is still undergoing its build out, but it will be very interesting to see how the project develops in the coming years. As for the Pinots that have made K-B so famous, the wines keep getting better and more refined with each passing vintage. One big development is the acquisition of Gaps Crown by investor Bill Price, who is also an owner of Kosta-Browne, which means that Gaps Crown now becomes essentially an estate vineyard, although I am told contracts with other growers who purchase fruit will remain in place. It-s all part of the constant energy that seems to be an essential part of K-B-s DNA. Tel. (707) 823-7430

(made from a blend of fruit from the Garys', Gap's Crown, Kanzler and Keefer vineyards): Vivid ruby. Smoky Indian spices, dark berries and cherry-cola on the nose. Broad and deep but also precise, offering sweet cherry compote and black raspberry flavors lifted by peppery spices. Tightly focused on the finish, which manages to be both vibrant and powerful. Fine-grained tannins arrive late and add shape and grip to this youthful pinot. (JR)