1997 Château de Fesles Bonnezeaux

The 1997 Bonnezeaux was aromatically muted. On the palate, however, this wine is immensely rich, ripe, and densely packed with quince, apricots, and spices. Chateau de Fesles' policy is to employ 100% new oak barrels, a potentially dangerous proposition when working with the delicate Chenin Blanc grape. That being said, 1997 is the third consecutive year where they have done so with admirable results. This layered, intensely sweet, oily, and full-bodied wine reveals a spicy, positive influence from the oak with none of the potential drawbacks. If this offering can gain some freshness, elegance, and focus with aging, it will merit an even higher score. Sip this wine over the next 12-15 years. Importers: in New York: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel (212) 355-0700, in California: Adventures & Wines, Tel: (415) 467-0130, and Tinamou Enterprises, Tel: (415) 927-0133.