2018 00 Wines Pinot Noir Hyland

From the Hyland Vineyard – planted with the Coury clone in 1972 at 675 ft on red volcanic Jory and Nekia soils. Hand-destemmed, pedicel by pedicel à la Leroy. Whole-berry fermented with indigenous yeast in 500-litre terracotta amphorae imported from Tuscany and then aged for 12 months in French oak (20% new) followed by six months in stainless steel. Completely different from the 2017 – so much deeper crimson and sweeter and more potent, and less distinctive. Was the fruit picked later than ideal? There's also an oaky note which is completely absent from the 2017. This is much more like typical New World Pinot and lacks the delicacy of the 2017. It's almost sour on the finish. (JR)

The 2018 Pinot Noir Hyland comes from own-rooted Coury clone vines planted in 1972. Each berry is hand-snipped from its stem, enough to fill one 500-liter terra cotta amphora. Medium ruby-purple, it is deeply scented of smoked meats, dried cranberries and rhubarb with accents of dried tangerine peel, aniseed and forest floor. The medium-bodied palate is fully fruited but not lacking in support, framed seamlessly by firm, ripe tannins and bright freshness. It's layered, broody and deep and finishes very long and loaded with flavor. I love this combination of unabashedly New World fruit with a firmer frame, and this should age very well in bottle. 50 cases were made.