2005 Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir Cuvée Laurene

Wow, funkytown. Spicebox, earth, violets, very perfumed and opulent with mushy red fruit compote and judicious toasty oak. Smooth, well textured mouthfeel with light tannin and medium body all in balance. Less immediately impressive on the palate than the nose – a taste of things to come, perhaps. Quite dominated by the intense aromatic set of flavours. Almost a bit much? (RH)

Bright red. Pungent cherry, blackcurrant and botanical herbs on the nose. Lush, velvety dark berry flavors show a liqueur-like intensity but are in no way heavy. Supple tannins slowly gain power on the long, sweet finish. Manages to be both powerful and graceful, with excellent finishing lift and cling.

In complete contrast, the 2005 Pinot Noir “Laurene” has an expressive nose of smoky black cherry and blackberry fruit. On the palate it exhibits the elevated acidity and firm structure typical of the vintage, but also a wide and deep band of succulent of silky, spicy, red and black fruits, excellent balance, and a long, pure finish. Give it 5-7 years in the cellar and drink it through 2027. Domaine Drouhin has been on a roll since the 2002 vintage. Dare I say it, the winery seems to be making better wine in Oregon than they are in France. Tel: (503) 864-2700; www.domainedrouhin.com. Also tasted: 2006 Chardonnay “Arthur (89), 2004 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley (80)