2011 Carter Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard The Grand Daddy

(14.7% alcohol; from clone 4): Bright, deep ruby-red. Soil-driven aromas of blueberry, cassis and minerals, along with a peppery herbal note and a whiff of band-aid. Reasonably intense but smaller-scaled, with the green note carrying through the wine and giving the finish a dry edge. This wine was promising from barrel last spring, although Mark Carter noted then that the fruit came from the wettest, latest-picked part of the vineyard in 2011. (I tasted two similar bottles.)

The fruity, soft 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon The Grand Daddy is somewhat lightweight for a To Kalon effort, but it is attractive in a restrained, lower-keyed manner. It should drink well for 10 years. For a number of years, this has been one of most impressive portfolios in Napa Valley, and as one might expect, the 2010s are outrageous offerings. Tel. (707) 445-0311

(from clone 4 in the wettest section of the vineyard and the last to ripen; picked at 23.5 degrees Brix in 2011, between October 18 and 20.): Moderately saturated medium bright ruby. Aromas of blueberry, licorice, crushed pepper and bitter chocolate. Supple in the mouth, with the crushed dark berry flavors carrying a trace of greenness throughout the wine. Gives an impression of lowish acidity but the pH here is in the fairly low 3.55 to 3.6 range, according to Mark Carter, who noted that the wine was greener several months ago. Finishes with notes of bitter chocolate, herbs and pepper.