2006 Philipponnat Extra Brut Cuvée Grand Cru

Fresh apple and turnip sprinkled with green herbs and toasted almond inform the nose and silken palate of Philipponnat's understated 2006 Brut Grand Blanc, a pure Chardonnay that isn't labeled "Blanc de Blancs." This is lovely as far as it goes - including textural polish and admirable persistence - but rather simple, at least for now. I wouldn-t hesitate to follow it for a couple of years, though. The house of Philipponnat - which owns 44 prime acres in and around Mareuil-sur-Ay, its base of operations ever since having completed a new press house and cellar there in 2004 - is headed by Charles Philipponat, although it's owned by the group that controls Champagne Bruno Paillard Philipponnat. This house's Clos des Goisses estate vineyard is justly renowned, but on the occasion of my recent tasting, their extra brut "1522" - named for the year in which the first Philipponnat began farming vines, in Ay - proved almost as compelling. Importer: The Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA; tel. (800) 999-4342