1998 Thackrey & Company Orion Old Vine Rossi Vineyard

(14.3% alcohol): Good bright ruby-red. Knockout nose combines raspberry, bitter cherry, sandalwood, smoke, gunflint and pepper; the most northern Rhône-like of these wines to this point in our tasting. Very concentrated and wonderfully sappy, with explosive raspberry fruit complicated by a sexy animal quality. Not at all a massive wine but conveys a strong impression of dry extract. Finishes with smooth tannins and a starburst of red fruits. Perfect today but should be every bit as good in 2020.