2010 Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin Chablis Grenouilles Grand Cru

Almost equally as compelling is the 2010 Chablis Grenouilles. It is not as intensely mineral as the Montee de Tonnerre, nor as ripe as the Valmur, but instead seems to combine the best of both of those wines. Green apples, pears, oyster shells and slate wrap around the pointed finish. I don’t usually think of Grenouilles as one of the top grand crus in Chablis, but this is undeniably a fine showing. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Once again, my tasting with Benoit Droin was one of the highlights of my trip to Chablis.Vintage 2011 was characterized by an early, easy and even flowering, which resulted in a generous crop. August rains bloated the grapes, which turned out to be a bit of an issue, as the harvest was several weeks earlier than normal. Droin began bringing in his 2011s on August 31st, three full weeks earlier than 2010. Droin describes 2011 as having lower acidity than 2010 and being better than 2005, 2006 and 2009 in a style that sits in between 2003 and 2007, if that makes sense. Droin’s 2011 are quite strong across the board, even if they lack the visceral thrill of the very best years. Personally, I prefer the 2010s, which I loved the minute I first tasted them from tank last year. The wines have a combination of fruit and acidity that is striking. Droin doesn’t seem to get a lot of attention in the press, but in my opinion, this is one of the very finest producers in Chablis. I have also had great luck with older bottles, as these are typically wines that age beautifully. Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Bright, pale straw-yellow. Ripe peach, toast, hazelnut and minerals on the nose; unusually rocky for Grenouille. Sweet, silky and open-knit, with a flavor of orange peel freshened by minerals and crushed rock. Finishes a bit youthfully aggressive and quite dry.

The 2010 Chablis Grenouilles is fat, rich and seductive. It possesses tons of generosity in its sweet, enveloping fruit. It is the most accessible and open of the 2010 grand crus, but lacks a little of the sheer excitement of the very finest wines in this vintage. The Grenouilles saw 50% oak.