2011 Wind Gap Mourvèdre Old Vine Bedrock Vineyard

(made from vines that were reportedly planted in the 1880s; 100% whole clusters and raised in 80% concrete eggs and 20% neutral French casks): Bright ruby. Exotic, mineral-accented aromas of redcurrant and cherry, with dried rose and Asian spices adding complexity. Firm and precise on the palate, offering lively tastes of red berry, bitter cherry and floral pastille plus a hint of cracked pepper. Gains sweetness and flesh with air, finishing with excellent clarity and mineral-driven persistence. This wine's blend of flavor intensity and vivacity is impressive.

The 2011 Mourvedre Old-Vine Bedrock Vineyard is a bit on the eccentric side. Savory herbs, tobacco, worn-in leather and tobacco are some of the nuances that waft from the glass as this delicate, mid-weight wine shows off its unique personality. The 2011, the product of a late harvest, was fermented with whole clusters and subsequently aged mostly in concrete. For my taste, the aromas and flavors are a touch on the vegetal side, but some readers may appreciate this style more than I do. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. This is another exciting, captivating set of wines from Wind Gap and Pax Mahle. Readers who have not yet discovered Wind Gap owe it to themselves to do so. These are some of the most gorgeous, nuanced wines being made in California today. Mahle continues to experiment with concrete and larger casks, both of which seem ideally suited to a minimalist approach that seeks to draw out the maximum expression of each of these sites. The Wind Gap wines achieve that elusive balance of depth without excess heaviness. Once again, I was deeply impressed with the range I tasted and can't recommend these wines highly enough. Tel. (707) 887-9100

A unique effort that I really don’t have a reference point for, the 2011 Wind Gap Wines Mourvedre Bedrock Vineyard comes from vines planted in the 1880s and was fermented with 100% whole cluster and aged all in concrete. It is a naked, pure expression of barely ripe Mourvedre that gives up plenty of wild strawberry, pomegranate, flowers, green herbs, and white pepper on the nose. This flows to a medium-bodied, lean, and juicy palate that has moderate ripeness, good tannin, and a clean, classy finish. Leaning towards the lighter side of the spectrum and with an herbal slant, I suspect it will drink nicely for 5-8 years; however, the herbal quality will be something to watch. I followed this bottle for multiple days and it held up nicely so I feel relatively confident that it will have a solid drink window.