2021 La Jota Chardonnay W.S. Keyes Vineyard

At 1,825 feet in elevation, the W S Keyes Vineyard enjoys strong mountain sunlight and a steady breeze. Nights are slightly warmer and days are cooler than on Napa’s valley floor. Soils are described as austere, a mixture of white volcanic rock – both hard and powdery – and red clay. The resulting small berries display balanced acidity and enjoy a longer ripening period. This wine is made from the oldest, most prized blocks of the vineyard. Picked at 21.5 Brix. Spontaneous fermentation. No malo. 22 months fermented and settled in 10% new French oak. Just 500–600 cases a year. 2017 was the first vintage of this particular wine; it was Liparita before.  Probably the last block of Chardonnay left on Howell Mountain because it’s so expensive to grow it there in relation to the price of the wine – even though it’s obviously a great place for Chardonnay because it’s so cool. At one time this vineyard was regarded as second tier because of the cold air from the surrounding forest. So head winemaker Chris Carpenter suggested making it more special. ‘Marketing and finance departments were both happy with that’, he reported, adding that he is aiming for apple and pear flavours rather than tropical fruits. Good, fresh, zesty citrus flavours discerned by me. Not burgundy-savoury but with lots of acidity and life. Obviously designed to age. Clean, long finish. (JR)