2007 Domaine Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots

Tasted 2016: Picked in late August, after a very warm spring. Deep gold. Hint of flowers and milky coffee. Complex tertiary nose. Still good edginess and lots of acidity – not soft at all. Racy, very satisfying and appetising. Crystalline – more Coche than the 2009. Dry finish. Just a slight lack of density costs it a higher score. But it’s an excellent wine. It’s a very serious, well-constituted wine. 17.5/20 Drink 2013–30. Lightly smoky, reduced nose but with lots of fruit and masses of potential still. Great undertow. Very fine wine so long as you don’t object to a trace of struck match. Liquorice too. Still very youthful! Still quite smoky on the finish. (JR)

Invariably one of the fuller, more generous wines in the range, the tendencies of the site marry nicely with the vintage in Coche's 2007 Meursault Les Rougeots. Exhibiting aromas of citrus oil, freshly baked bread, toasted sesame, white flowers and nashi pear, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with a deep core of fruit, racy acids and chalky structuring extract. It hasn't changed much since I last drank a bottle just over three years ago, and there's still upside here for the patient.

The 2007 Meursault Les Rougeots is consistent with the bottle encountered a few months earlier, that hint of pumpkin and dried honey still lending complexity on the nose. The palate retains the same distinctive oily texture with stem ginger and roasted walnut flavors and the fennel popping up toward the finish to lend a bit of Provençal flair. Wonderful!