2011 Carlisle Syrah Papa's Block

(made from fruit harvested on October 26; about a third whole clusters and 22% new French oak): Opaque ruby. Captivating, high-toned bouquet evokes fresh black and blue fruits, pungent herbs, smoky minerals and notes of clove, cola and black cardamom. Supple, fine-grained and seductively sweet, with a velvety texture and intense, spice-accented blueberry and cassis flavors. Harmonious tannins make a late appearance on the pliant, clinging finish. A sexy, complex syrah, with great upfront appeal. Officer told me that even though this fruit hung through the heavy early October rains the loose clusters prevented botrytis, as did open canopies.

The 2011 Syrah Papa’s Block is endowed with serious grip and tension. Dark raspberries, savory herbs, crushed flowers and stems are all very much present in the glass. At this stage, the whole clusters (32%) still need time to integrate, but all the aromas and flavors are vivid and beautifully articulated throughout. Fresh, floral notes add lift on the finish, while the firm tannins provide the underlying architecture. The Papa’s Block is highly compelling, but it won’t be ready to drink for at least a few years. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Proprietor Mike Officer arrived with a bevy of wines for our tasting, all of which I was thrilled to sample. Readers who don’t think terroir exists in California should check out the Carlisle Zinfandels and Syrahs, many of which emerge from old-vine, heritage sites that nearly disappeared until Officer and some of his peers rescued them from the brink of oblivion. In particular, the 2011 Zinfandels are fabulous. Officer describes 2011 as a very late harvest. The Syrahs were all picked after the rains, while the thinner-skinned Zinfandels naturally came in quite a bit earlier. Officer told me he performed a severe selection of fruit that took with it a full 50% of the production. For his efforts, Officer has been rewarded with a set of gorgeous wines, although I imagine his faithful clientele won’t be too thrilled with the lower production levels of these wines, given their already minuscule production. Unfortunately, 2011 Compagni Portis and Gruner Veltliner were to be bottled right after this tasting, so I will have to wait until another opportunity to sample those wines. Carlisle is resolute in keeping his wines affordable, a commendable approach I wish were more common throughout California. Tel. (707) 566-7700