NV NV Vilmart et Cie Grand Cellier Brut 1er Cru
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Tasting notes
The NV Brut Grand Cellier (2022 base) is exuberant and showy. Then again, this is a 2022-base release. Lemon confit, tangerine oil, white flowers and pasty notes all meld together. There's gorgeous mid-palate viscosity and texture here. This is impeccably done. Dosage is 7 grams per liter. Disgorged: January 2025.
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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Mainly Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, the NV Champagne Premier Cru Grand Cellier Brut is a brilliant pale yellow color. Tasted at the estate and again in my office, the second tasting shone much more brightly, with its Chardonnay featuring notes of candied lemons, fresh pastry dough, and a hint of fresh bread dough. It filled the palate with a rounded and light frothy mousse, though it’s a more structured wine in this vintage, with bright acidity that brings tension to the release of this Grand Cellier. Red currants and bright citrus shine, with a neutral base that elevates to a medium to full-bodied feel. It is focused and bright in this release, and again has a good deal of focused tension, with the ability to age. It was quite taut and compact in its feel on second tasting. It should have no problem improving over the next few years, but it is also refreshing, energetic, and enjoyable now. This is from the 2021 base vintage, with wines from 2020 and 2019. They block malo as a style across the wines in the house. Disgorged in September 2024, with 7 grams per liter dosage.
For a reliable non-vintage Champagne that offers the versatility of being enjoyed now or cellared for later, Vilmart & Cie’s NV Grand Cellier cuvée is a standout choice. Based on the 2021 vintage and enriched with 50% reserve wines from 2020 and 2019, it was matured in large casks, predominantly from Tonnellerie Rousseau. Stylistically distinct from the Grande Réserve, this cuvée reverses the blend, featuring 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir. The latest release combines the bright, focused character of the cool, late-ripening 2021 vintage with the concentration of the two preceding years. Bursting with aromas of lemon zest, white flowers and crisp pear, it leads into a medium to full-bodied, taut palate with excellent tension and lively acidity, complemented by a fine, pinpoint mousse and concluding with a long and mineral finish. Disgorged in November 2023 with a dosage of seven grams per liter, it is a balanced and vibrant Champagne.
Made from 70% Chardonnay and the rest Pinot Noir, the NV Champagne 1er Cru Grand Cellier Brut is a bright yellow color and offers very appealing aromas of lemon curd, meringue, white peach, almond pastry, and verbena. It has good tension on the palate with a chalky texture, a luxurious feel, and a refined, pinpoint mousse. This lovely wine is only going to improve if given the chance. Drink 2026-2046. Disgorged December 2023.