2009 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Amber Ridge Vineyard

The 2009 Pinot Noir Amber Ridge Vineyard bursts onto the palate with black cherries, mint, flowers and cola. It boasts gorgeous depth in a sexy, voluptuous style that is very inviting. The long finish is peppered with layers of expressive fruit. The Amber Ridge was made from fully destemmed fruit. This is the last vintage of the Amber Ridge, now that the vineyard has been sold to Nickel & Nickel. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Kosta Browne is one of the great American success stories of the last decade. The story begins when longtime friends Dan Kosta and Michael Browne discover a shared passion for Pinot Noir while working together at a local restaurant. They start with a tiny amount of homemade Pinot Noir, grow gradually, acquire some financing along the way, work their tails off and one day the mailing list requires a five year wait for the vineyard designated wines. Of course I am simplifying, but Kosta Browne is the type of entrepreneurial success that can only happen in this country. Over the years, as the winemaking approach has developed, the wines have become much more finessed than they used to be. Toast levels have come down. Some lots are fermented in open top wood vats, an approach that seems promising based on the wines I tasted. A number of the wines were fermented with whole clusters, as noted below. The Kosta-Browne Pinots are notable for their exuberant fruit. The wines are incredibly attractive when young, which is when I prefer to drink them. Tel. (707) 823-7430

Deep ruby. More musky and powerful than the Keefer Ranch bottling, showing dark berry and cherry character and notes of smoked meat and mocha. Broad, chewy and powerful, offering rich cherry compote and black raspberry flavors and a note of bitter chocolate. Quite a bit richer than the excellent 2008, which is lovely right now, by the way. Finishes on a sneaky note of candied rose, with solid punch. Give this some time in bottle.