1989 Château Raymond-Lafon

This small estate continues to turn out remarkably rich, unctuously-textured, thick, powerful wines that brilliantly balance power and intensity with elegance and finesse. The 1989 exhibits aromas of honeyed pineapple/tropical fruit and toasty new oak, as well as an exotic, flashy perfume that is not as pronounced in either the 1990 or 1988. It exhibits less botrytis than the other two vintages and tasted the most restrained. All three wines share opulent, full-bodied, exotic, lavishly rich personalities, moderate sweetness (the 1990 is the sweetest), and huge quantities of extract, glycerin, and alcohol in their finishes. All three wines are also extremely young and unevolved. They can be drunk now, but purchasers are advised to wait until the turn of the century and enjoy them over the following two decades.

Oily, clove-scented oak and flowers dominate the nose. Juicy and bright, but with a seductive billowy texture. Compelling inner-mouth flavors of ginger, coconut and caraway seed (serve with a Thai curry?). Solid acidity frames and extends the fruit through a long, oak-spicy finish. A very good showing.