2006 Behrens Family Erna Schein Petite Sirah

The 2006 Petite Sirah Spring Mountain is a tannic, backward effort exhibiting notes of incense, acacia flowers, and blueberries along with some sweet tannins. The color is a nearly impenetrable purple, and the wine will benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age. It should keep for 15 or more. Known as Behrens and Hitchcock until the departure of Bob Hitchcock, this artisinal winery on the top of Spring Mountain has changed its name to Erna Schein. The proprietors, Les and Lisa Behrens, continue to fine tune an intriguing portfolio of wines. Because of disappointing results from synthetic closures, they have now gone back to traditional cork. Lisa is widely regarded as one of Napa’s most capable viticulturists, and appears to have a knack for finding forgotten vineyard treasures. In addition to the name change, the Behrens seem to be moving away from varietal names, using instead a series of colorful, often provocative labels. All the following wines are flavorful, exuberant, full-bodied offerings made with indigenous yeasts, and are bottled unfined and unfiltered. They represent true low-tech wines. Tel. (707) 963-1774; Fax (707) 963-8206

(blended with 8% cabernet franc) Full ruby. Reticent but pure aromas of cassis, black pepper and licorice, with a distinctly resiny, tarry lift. Rather suave on entry, then tightly wound and uncompromisingly dry in the middle, with the peppery character carrying through onto the palate and tannic aftertaste. Behrens referred to this one as "the angel of meat." It would make a perfect accompaniment to a pepper-encrusted steak.