2012 Joseph Phelps Syrah Hyde & Sons Vineyard

Joseph Phelps was one of the first so-called Rhône Rangers to exploit grapes associated with France’s Rhône Valley. His top-flight 2012 Syrah Larry Hyde & Sons Vineyard includes 5-6% Viognier. Aged in a combination of new and neutral French oak, it exhibits copious notes of lard, bacon, meat, blackberries and black raspberries. Pure, rich, full-bodied, lush and exotic, it should provide plenty of pleasure over the next 6-7 years.

The 2012 Syrah Larry Hyde & Sons Vineyard is a little more lifted and perfumed than the straight Syrah bottling. Violets, smoke, black pepper, licorice and tar meld together in a super-refined, polished Syrah. The 2012 stands out for its finesse, silkiness and overall balance. Varietal notes reappear on a fragrant, expressive finish that balances the overt, racy style of the year.

A new offering, the 2012 Syrah Larry Hyde & Sons Vineyard is also made from 94% Syrah and 6% estate co-fermented Viognier. Aged 18 months in 42% new and 58% neutral French oak; it exhibits abundant aromas of bacon fat, lychee nuts, spring flowers, cassis and black raspberries. This sensual, refined, smoky wine hits the palate with a medium to full-bodied richness, polished and refined tannins, decent acidity and a rich mouthfeel. All of Joseph Phelps’ Sonoma Coast Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs will be included in the Sonoma report in the December, 2013 issue. One of the visionaries in California’s Rhone Ranger movement that began a quarter of a century ago, Phelps continues to focus on their Syrah program. I have mixed emotions about that because they made some wonderful wines from some other Rhone varietals in the past under the terminated Mistral label. On the www.erobertparker.com website, I will be posting one of the most historical vertical tastings I have ever done, that of Joseph Phelps’ proprietary red Bordeaux blend called Insignia, which was one of California’s first proprietary red Meritage wines launched in 1974. While visiting this winery in early September, I had the privilege of tasting every vintage from 1974 to 2012. This has always been a remarkable wine and sadly I am old enough to remember the 1974, to which I gave a great rating, but then suggested it be drunk within 10-12 years. I never thought it would last. Of course, it turned out to be one of the great mature wines of the vertical tasting, but more on that on the web site. The five vintages of Insignia which consumers should be keeping an eye on are 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012. Here are my notes on those wines which are either on the market or soon will be. By the way, the production of Insignia over the last 15-20 years has ranged from a low of 10,000-12,000 cases to a whopping 20,000 cases, often with the highest production levels in some of the greatest years. There are usually around 750 to 1,300 cases of the Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard. Usually 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, it is fashioned from the red soils of the Oakville hillsides (a spectacular sight as you drive south on the Silverado Trail). Tel. (800) 707-5789