2010 Turley Zinfandel Dusi Vineyard

A rich, voluptuous wine, the 2010 Zinfandel Dusi Vineyard emerges from the glass with plums, graphite, flowers and exotic spices. There is plenty of personality and character in this decidedly lavish, racy Zinfandel. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. This is a thrilling set of wines from Larry Turley, Ehren Jordan and Tegan Passalacqua. Tasting this wide a range of 2010 and 2011 Zinfandels and Petite Syrahs is like taking a master class in California terroir. The house style favors an expression of Zinfandel and Petite Syrah built on aromatic intensity and elegance, which Jordan credits to gentle extractions. At times, the wines come across as quite Burgundian in the way they express richness but not excess heaviness. Over the last few years, the wines have become a little more laid-back and less overtly ripe, which is a net positive given that the starting point for all of these wines is fruit of exceptional quality. The Petite Syrahs in particular are noteworthy because they are among the few wines that find the elegance Petite Syrah is capable of, while avoiding the massive tannins that are so typical elsewhere. The 2010s are strong across the board, although Turley did not bottle a few of their wines from sites that got scorched by the heat spikes, which includes the Highway 101 and Zampatti. The 2011s are more variable, as befits a vintage that had much less favorable conditions overall. Tel. (707) 963-0940

(16% alcohol; from a fertile site with low-pH soil for Paso Robles): Medium ruby. High-toned aromas of blueberry, blackberry and crushed pepper. Juicy and concentrated, with a distinctly savory character to the chewy black fruit and spice flavors. Conveys a strong impression of tiny berries. A real crushed blackberry fruit bomb, finishing with suave tannins and terrific length. The pH here is 3.45.