2018 Franz Kunstler - Hochheimer Kirchenstuck Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Both nose and palate exhibit an unusually ripe and rounded impression compared with what’s usual for this bottling. While in capitulation to VDP regulations the wine is no longer labeled “Kabinett,” roughly 12% alcohol does not preclude a pleasing sense of lift. Baked apple is garlanded in apple blossom and honeysuckle, then takes on stimulating seed piquancy and twang of tart skin on a polished palate. Passion fruit is cut by caraway in a manner that recalls Sauvignon. True to its terroir and lineage, generously fruity and caressing though this bottling is, its lingering finish reveals intriguing chalky and stony nuances. (There continues to also be a Kirchenstück Grosses Gewächs, so VDP regulations dictate a further classificatory and name change: Beginning with vintage 2019, this bottling will be labeled “Kirchenstück Im Stein” for its narrower vineyard source, and will officially be classified as Erste Lage rather than Grosse Lage.)
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
The gold-capsuled 2018 Hochheim Kirchenstück Riesling Trocken GG VDP. Grosse Lage is deep and rich on the nose and offers higher ripeness and intensity than the Erste Lage sibling, while the refreshing, citrus-scented purity of the terroir remains. On the palate, this is a full-bodied, rich and powerful dry Riesling with vegetal aromas and a tight, well-structured but also somewhat mighty and phenolic finish that in the end doesn't convince as much as the Erste Lage version does. Time will show if I am wrong here. The wine could merit 92 RP after some years in the bottle. Tasted in August 2019.
A striking fruity fragrance with delightful aromas of fresh apple and mandarin impresses the sense of smell. Apple and citrus fruit are accompanied on the palate by a deft spicy touch reminiscent of nutmeg and clove, probably an indication of a little time spent in wood. Very attractive with a slightly sweet finish. (MS)
Love the creamy and dense mouth feel to this with such depth and intensity. Full body. Lightly cooked apples and peaches with some earth. The caressing texture is impressive. Drink or hold. Screw cap.