2008 Hexamer Schlossböckelheimer In den Felsen Riesling Spätlese

A slightly disappointingly rough Monzinger Fruhlingsplatzchen Riesling Spatlese reflected a newly-recovered parcel of old vines (long in his family) that Hexamer indicated need some tough love, but a 2008 Schlossbockelheimer In den Felsen Riesling Spatlese brims with luscious pineapple and bright lemon; hits the palate with zesty pungency; and clings with an oily as well as site-typically smoky cast. At 10% alcohol, it exhibits a nice balance of body with discreet sweetness. A faintly fusil note becomes more prominent as this opens to the air, and both I and Hexamer speculate that it might take a petrol-like turn early on. I’d want to revisit it within the next couple of years but suspect it will be best enjoyed within the next 5-7. Harald Hexamer’s crew generally picked with two buckets this year, segregating botrytis fruit at the same time as that for the dry wines was gathered. The results in both genres sometimes lack a bit of refinement. Hexamer performed some pre-fermentative maceration; some de-acidification; and allowed or encouraged some lots to go through malo-lactic conversion, all in an effort to deal with his high 2008 acidities. Incidentally,he has begun installing the large wooden ovals made for him by Hosch from some exceptionally tight-grained old oaks in the estate, but he will be using them for Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris for a time in order to season them before they receive Riesling. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300