2007 Domaine François Bertheau Chambolle-Musigny

Both richer and more deeply colored than the corresponding 2008, Bertheau’s 2007 Chambolle-Musigny preserves a firmness of feel, tart fruit edge, and invigorating salinity that are typical for his wines, even if not for this vintage. This displays emphatic grip and energy for a 2007 as well as pan drippings-like savor, and ought to be delightful over the next half dozen years at least, perhaps picking up more nuance in the process. My only reservation here is a faint bit of warmth from its (though hardly unusually high) 13.5% alcohol. Francois Bertheau’s tendency toward rendering frisky, sharply-etched and sharp-edged Pinot was practically bound to be accentuated by 2008 vintage character, and the quality of results varied considerably by appellation. Asked which of 2007 and 2008 were more challenging, Bertheau answered, in English, “fifty-fifty,” but this is one address where I found the softer, riper, if relatively diffuse personality of the former vintage more satisfying. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524