2012 Bollinger Blanc de Noirs La Côte aux Enfants
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Tasting notes
With three years of maturation post-disgorgement—following its March 2022 disgorgement with a dosage of eight grams per liter—I am pleased to report that Bollinger’s inaugural 2012 Blanc de Noirs La Côte aux Enfants is no longer as restrained as described in William Kelley’s 2023 tasting note, and it now presents as expressive and inviting, though unmistakably distinct from the incisive, more linear style of the 2013 vintage. The fruit reached a potential alcohol of 10.9% prior to harvest in 2012, surpassed only by the 2015. On the nose, it reveals a deep bouquet of ripe pear, orange zest, baking spices, toasted nuts and a hint of brioche. Medium- to full-bodied and vinous in character, it is charming and flavorful, with a generous core of fruit supported by tangy acidity and concludes with a long, enveloping finish. Flamboyant and full of character, it is already drinking with satisfaction and unmistakably bears the hallmark of Bollinger’s style.
Critic scores
Jeb Dunnuck
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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The single parcel of La Côte Aux Enfants has long been the source for Bollinger’s still red wine for both their Rosé and their Coteaux Champenois bottlings. The 2012 Champagne Blanc de Noirs La Côte Aux Enfants Brut is their first release, with approximately 1000 bottles produced, only 70 of which will come into the United States. One hundred percent Pinot Noir, it is rich with incense, bread dough, fully ripe red fruits, and kirsch. The palate is broad and mouth-filling with consistency from the aromatics and has a long, floral finish with blackcurrant, lavender, toast, and a driving mineral texture. Though it is ripe and full, it maintains freshness and energy without feeling bruised and has refreshing salinity. It leaves a wonderful first impression, but this could certainly prove challenging to revisit given its miniscule quantities. Drink 2024-2044. Located in Ay, Bollinger was founded in 1829. To mark the 200th anniversary of the house, they have several projects in the works scheduled for completion in 2029, not only to commemorate the occasion but to carry the house into their next chapter. Construction is underway to renovate the Maison Deuil, the long-time private residence on the property, into a 20-room hotel along with a restaurant, which is sure to make a significant impact on the tiny village. A signature of the house is that they have their own cooperage on site to build and maintain their barrels. Gael Chaunut took over the position from Denis Saint Arroman as head cooper for the house in December of 2020. All the wood is sourced from their property in the forest of Cuis. As négociants, they purchase 60% their grapes and own 179 hectares of planted vineyards. Sixty percent of their production is dedicated to Pinot Noir, with 25% to Chardonnay and the remainder to Meunier. The inaugural release of 2012 La Côte Aux Enfants is the second single-parcel bottling from the house and completes the collection of Pinot Noir Champagnes alongside the PN Series and Vieilles Vignes Françaises. Stylistically, the Vieille Vignes Françaises remains the richest and most powerful wine in the range, with an emphasis on the concentration of its fruit from the ungrafted vines of Clos Saint Jacques.
The 2012 Blanc de Noirs La Côte aux Enfants is a new Champagne from Bollinger made from a southwest-facing, 2-hectare parcel in Aÿ that was redeveloped 25 years ago adjacent to the block that has informed the house’s Coteaux Champenois since 1934. Even in 2012 – a radiant year – the Côte aux Enfants is intensely bright and tightly wound, a reflection of very thin soils with just 30 centimeters of topsoil above pure chalk. That reticence is probably a very good sign for its long-term aging prospects. Time brings out hints of apricot, peach, red plum, kirsch, wild flowers, chalk, spice and white pepper, but the 2012 only starts to blossom with a ton of air. The 2012 was disgorged in March 2022. Dosage is 8 grams per liter, on the higher side these days, but not at all noticeable. Stylistically, the Côte aux Enfants is not as exotic as the VVF, nor as steely as the new series of multi-vintage PN Blanc de Noirs Bollinger began releasing with the 2015 vintage. I can’t wait to see how it ages, but I also wouldn’t dream of touching a bottle any time soon, except for academic purposes.
About the producer
Bollinger is one of the most renowned and coveted Champagne Houses in the world, famous for its Pinot-Noir-dominant wines, in particular La Grande Année and the rare Vieilles Vignes Françaises (from pre-phylloxera vines).