2006 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes 1er Cru

Doubtless as a result of the hail damage this site suffered, Barthod's 2006 Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes singularly fails to live up to its name, harboring some residual roughness and disjointedness, although Barthod claims it only really clamped down after racking and thinks it will recover. (I did not get a chance to taste it from bottle.) Fresh cherry and raspberry aromatics lead to a bright though austere palate. Penetration and sheer refreshment in the finish go a long way toward redeeming this, and the empty glass is alluringly redolent of high-toned fruit and herbal (Barthod uses the trenchant word "chlorophyllic") distillates and floral essences. Ghislaine Barthod's yields were low not only on account of hail (notably in Beaux Bruns and Charmes), she explained, but also on account of the relative paucity of juice in the berries. That said, as with so many of the best 2006s, Barthod's are generous and largely free of tannic severity. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990