2004 Hourglass Cabernet Sauvignon

Unbridled ripeness and cloyingly sweet. Reminds more of Port. This wine has legions of fans, but I’m afraid I’m not one of them. (LM) $135

Good deep red-ruby. Bound-up nose offers cassis, licorice and mint, plus a suggestion of sweet butter. Suave, sweet and primary, with black cherry and black licorice flavors lifted by a minty nuance. This dense, silky fruit bomb really spreads out to saturate the palate. Wonderfully fine-grained and fresh on the finish, which features sweet tannins and terrific length. The best vintage yet for this bottling, thanks in large part to a very low crop level.

After a somewhat disappointing 2003, Hourglass’s 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, made by well-known consulting winemaker Bob Foley, is a blockbuster, opulent, complex, deep ruby/purple effort. Beautiful aromas of melted licorice, white chocolate, creme de cassis, flowers, and background oak soar from this bewitching, opulent, fleshy, succulent Cabernet. This full-bodied beauty will provide delicious drinking early on, and age nicely for 10-15 years. Tel. (707) 968-9332