2004 J.C. Conde Neo

Even better is the 2004 Neo with its plush personality, soaring aromatics, and already complex flavors. Don’t be fooled, however; this is still a youthful wine that will benefit from another 4-6 years of cellaring and will drink well through 2029. Bodegas Neo consists of a bunch of young guys having the time of their lives. They seem to be making wine everywhere (Rueda, Priorat, Bierzo, Rioja, and Ribera del Duero), as well as designing wine labels, recording music videos, and generally partying. But when it comes down to their top two wines, they are deadly serious. On my visit in May, 2010, I was shown verticals of Neo and Neo Punta Esencia. Neo is sourced from 50- to 60-year-old Tempranillo vines and typically aged in French and American oak for 15 months before bottling without fining or filtration. Neo Punta Esencia is made only in the better years. It is sourced from a single, 80-year-old vineyard producing tiny yields. It receives the “200% new oak” treatment spending 12 months in 100% new French oak before racking into a different set of new barrels for 6 months. Importer: Aurelio Cabastrero, Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA; tel. (571) 642-0343