2006 Domaine Boyer-Martenot Meursault Les Charmes 1er Cru

Aromas of candied citrus, vanilla, marzipan, and musky floral notes mark the nose of Boyer’s 2006 Meursault Charmes. This is another of the collection that displays an awkwardly milky note, mingling with vanilla cream. Candied pink grapefruit rind, toasted nuts, and an alkaline mineral character add interest to the imposing, enveloping, creamy richness on display here, and additional focus will almost certainly come with time in bottle. I would plan to enjoy this within 3-5 years, though. Vincent Boyer began picking several days after the official starting date, in the belief that his grapes required additional ripening. After yeasting, the musts took off and fermented quickly, which might account for a certain sameness of character I noticed from one site to another. All but one of the 2006s was bottled already by August, 2007. Boyer was concerned to preserve freshness and the early 2007 harvest forced him to make a quick decision. The wines were lightly filtered but not fined. (Several unfiltered bottlings from selected barrels were as usual essayed this year exclusively for North Berkeley Imports, which I did not taste.) A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93