2006 Larkmead Cabernet Sauvignon The Lark

(100% cabernet sauvignon from a single block in the middle of the property; the alcohol of 14.7% is the lowest of these 2006s) Saturated medium ruby. Superripe aromas of cassis, black plum and dark chocolate. Lush on entry, then tight in the middle, with the black fruit and licorice flavors currently under wraps. But here the tannins come off as suave and chocolatey, as there's terrific buffering density of material. Very long on the aftertaste. Just four barrels were made, all new oak.

A new cuvee, the 2006 The Lark (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) comes from the proprietor’s favorite block, which was once identified by the late Harold Olmo as his choice for Cabernet Sauvignon. It is only four barrels, or 100 cases, so I’ll keep my notes short. The wine displays beautiful sweetness and opulence in a style very much like the Solari, and at this stage it seems hard to differentiate from that wine. This is one of the reference point as well as historic vineyards of Napa Valley, yet remarkably, Larkmead is not as well known as the quality of these wines or the stature of this vineyard merits. With 145 acres in vines and a vineyard established in the late 1800s by the Solari family, it has been run for multiple decades by Kate Solari Baker and her husband Cam. Perhaps the fact that the vineyard and winery have an actual road named after them (Larkmead Lane) says it all. Andy Smith, who has done such a brilliant job at DuMOL and a few other places, is the consulting winemaker, and he seems to be going from strength to strength with these wines. As much as I loved what Larkmead did in 2004 and 2005, their 2006s are among the vintage’s most compelling, They do make some white wine, as they have nearly 13 acres planted with Sauvignon Blanc. It is a wine that is barrel-fermented then kept for ten months on its lees. Larkmead is a sensational producer, and the prices seem incredibly fair for wines of such quality. As one might expect, the 2007s are extraordinarily opulent, seductive wines already, despite the fact that none of them are in bottle. The seamlessness of the tannins, the purity of the fruit, and the undeniable concentration suggest these wines will be absolute crowd pleasers when released, but are easily capable of lasting 20-30 years for the top cuvees. Tel. (707) 942-0167; Fax (707) 942-6934