2007 Larkmead Cabernet Sauvignon The Lark

The 2007 The Lark has developed lovely smokiness. It shows gorgeous textural finesse and the silkiest of tannins in an understated, classy style. This is one of the more refined 2007s readers will come across, but it is also quite shut down and not fully expressive. The 2007 is 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Petit Verdot, aged in 100% new barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2037. Larkmead is one of the historic estates in Napa Valley, with a rich lineage that goes back to 1895. The wines I tasted with proprietor Cam Baker and winemaker Andy Smith were all exceptional. Most importantly, though, these are highly individualistic wines loaded with true personality and class. Pricing remains exceedingly fair by Napa Valley standards, considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Available through Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

(from a single block of cabernet sauvignon planted on the estate's rockiest soil; aged in 100% new oak) Good full medium ruby. The aromas of blackcurrant and bitter chocolate show a cool graphite minerality. Then almost surprisingly lush in the mouth, expanding impressively in the middle palate but enlivened by powerful minerality. Finishes very long, with huge, broad, fine-grained tannins. This is a major mouthful of cabernet.

(includes 8% petit verdot) Saturated medium ruby. More roasted on the nose than the Solari Reserve, showing liqueur-like blackberry, blueberry and cassis aromas complicated by licorice, violet, mocha and graphite. Lush in texture but less showy than the Solari owing to an impression of firmer acidity and an almost syrah-like quality that apparently comes from the petit verdot component. This is almost liqueur-like without being at all overly sweet. Ultimately a suave and effortless wine, finishing with big tannins and a burst of licorice. Still, today I prefer the Solari Reserve for its harmony and perfume.