2018 Sine Qua Non Graciano The Third Twin

The 2018 Graciano (there’s 5% Petite Sirah, 3% Syrah, and 2% Viognier) is another masterpiece. Full-bodied aromas and flavors of blueberries, wild strawberries, ground pepper, leather, violets, and even some gamey nuances define this incredible wine, and it has building tannins, a ripe, layered texture, and remarkable purity. It should have 15+ years of prime drinking. This cuvée comes 100% from the Third Twin Vineyard, was 65% destemmed, and spent 27 months in one-third new barrels.

“Like Grenache, Graciano ripens late and has to be ripe to produce anything great,” Manfred Krankl mentioned as I tasted the fifth tiny-volume release of this Graciano-dominant blend, coming entirely from the estate-owned The Third Twin vineyard in Los Alamos. The Third Twin is a medium-warm site, purchased by Elaine and Manfred in 2010. The soil is almost pure sand, and it is mainly planted to Syrah, Petite Sirah and Mourvedre, with smaller plantings of Graciano. The 2018 Graciano is a blend of 90% Graciano, 5% Petit Sirah, 3% Syrah and 2% Viognier, employing 35% whole clusters. It was aged for 27 months in French oak, 33% new. Opaque purple-black in color, it opens with a provocative red berry lift—redcurrants, Morello cherries and pomegranate—over a core of mulberries, wild blueberries, lavender, fennel seed and clove oil, plus a waft of tobacco leaf. The full-bodied palate is built like a brick house, featuring very firm, beautifully ripe tannins and a racy backbone to support the ultra-concentrated red, black and blue fruit layers, finishing with great length and tons of savory sparks. Stunning. 74 cases were made, and it is due to be released in April 2023.