2010 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay Clos du Château des Ducs 1er Cru

Good full red. Deep aromas of cherry, redcurrant, licorice and earth. The palate offers good flesh, density and minerality, with underlying structure giving it an impression of solidity. The broad finish features very fine tannins.

The 2010 Volnay Clos du Chateau des Ducs is built on a serious core of fruit. This is an especially powerful, structured Volnay that impresses for its depth and muscle. Dark tonalities of fruit meld into spices, licorice and menthol as the aromas and flavors gain volume in the glass. A plush, resonant finish rounds things out in style. This is an utterly impeccable Volnay from Lafarge. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040. Yields were down 40% in 2010 at Lafarge. According to Frederic Lafarge, a superb September saved a year marked by damp, cold weather during the flowering and later throughout the summer. On the positive side, the low yields per plant allowed the grapes to achieve full phenolic ripeness. The 2010s were racked in mid-August 2011 and were aging on their fine lees when I tasted them from barrel in November 2011. As pretty as the 2010s are, today I have a slight preference for the 2009s. That said, the 2010s are terrific, and many of the wines are at or near the top of their respective peer groups. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

Serious stuff. Even slightly animal! Round, racy fruit – very flirtatious. Lafarge delicacy. Real lightness of touch. Explosive fruit in the mouth. Racy wine with peacock’s tail of spreading nuances on the finish. (JR)