1997 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée Les Genevrières
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Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Allen Meadows, Burghound
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The medium-to-dark ruby-colored 1997 Vosne-Romanee Les Genevrieres reveals violets, roses, and red berries in its aromatics. Silky-textured, medium-to-full-bodied, and intense, this concentrated wine saturates the palate with candied red cherries, blueberries, and Asian spices. Its outstanding depth of fruit and seamless structure portend a bright future. Anticipated maturity: now-2010. Importers: Martine's Wines, Inc., San Rafael, CA; tel (415) 485-1800, and Paterno Imports, Chicago, IL; tel (847) 604-8900.
Good deep red. Brooding aromas of plum, redcurrant and smoke; this is more floral on the nose, whereas the last two are more minerally. Tight and firm, with good acidity, but a bit slight. Here, too, there's less middle to support the tannins. I also picked up a slight sourness on the finish that I did not detect in any of the other Leroy '97s.
About the producer

For many, Domaine Leroy represents the pinnacle of fine Burgundy. Owned and run by the legendary Lalou Bize-Leroy, the domaine in Vosne-Romanée is one strand of the Leroy empire, along with Maison Leroy and Domaine d’Auvenay.