2011 Radio-Coteau Pinot Noir Laguna

(35% new oak): Bright ruby-red. Sexy, smoke-accented red and dark berry preserves on the nose, with a potpourri quality adding complexity. Sweet, expansive black raspberry and candied rose flavors are supported by tangy minerality and pack a solid punch. The brisk, persistent finish repeats the red fruit preserve and floral notes and shows very good clarity and spiciness.

The 2011 Pinot Noir Laguna jumps from the glass with dark red berries, mint, flowers and spices. There is an immediacy and voluptuousness to the fruit that is striking. Sage, rosemary and juniper berries are some of the nuances that add complexity on the savory, inviting finish. I very much like the sense of energy here. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578