2011 Radio-Coteau Pinot Noir Terra Neuma

Bright ruby. Sexy, floral-accented aromas of candied red berries, Asian spices and cola. Shows impressive clarity and energy on the palate, offering sweet raspberry and cherry flavors and a touch of licorice. Very fresh and lithe, with bright finishing lift and subtle, slow-building tannins.

The 2011 Pinot Noir Terra Neuma shows the richness and weight of the Dijon clones. Layers of expressive dark red fruit caress in a rich, textured Pinot that is quite large scale for the Sonoma Coast. This is a firm, big, broad-shouldered, structured wine with perhaps a touch less finesse than the very best Pinots in this lineup, but still terrific. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578