2009 Vilmart et Cie Les Blanches Voies Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru
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A new lieu-dit cuvée for Vilmart—derived from 60-year-old vines and vinified in barrel for 10 months—debuts with the 2009 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Blanches Voies, a wine that was disgorged in March 2017 with four grams per liter dosage. Wafting from the glass with aromas of crisp yellow pear, beeswax, white flowers, walnuts and brioche, it's deep, full-bodied and searingly intense, with chalky structuring extract and an incisive spine of acidity. Long and penetrating, this has turned out brilliantly.
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Antonio Galloni, Vinous
William Kelley, Wine Advocate
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A thrilling new cuvée from Vilmart launches with the 2009 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs, a special bottling produced from lieu-dit Les Blanches Voies that was fermented and matured in 228-liter barrels from Damy for ten months before spending fully 48 months sur lattes. It was disgorged in March 2017 with four grams per liter dosage. In other words, this derives from the same source as the Coeur du Cuvée and sees an additional year on yeasts and a touch less dosage. Opening in the glass with notes of lemon oil, wet stones, warm biscuits and English walnuts, it's full-bodied, racy and searingly concentrated, with a tight-knit, chiseled core, terrific acidity and a long, chalky finish. Only 2,900 bottles were produced, and it's worth every effort to secure one or two.
The 2009 Blanc de Blancs Les Blanches Voies is every bit as stunning as it was last year. The combination of the warm year and the natural richness conferred by these 70+- year-old vines yields a powerful, vinous Champagne with tremendous character, depth and the pedigree to drink well for many years. Laurent Champs gave the Blanc de Blancs 7 years on the cork, as opposed to the 6 that are customary for the Coeur de Cuvée. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. Disgorged: March, 2017.