2010 Radio-Coteau Pinot Noir Dierke

The 2010 Pinot Noir Dierke is almost Syrah-like in its dark red and black fruit. Iron, tar, incense, smoke, black pepper and cloves all appear with time in the glass, adding considerable personality. The Dierke is highly unusual and compelling, but it is likely to appeal most to readers who admire cool-climate wines. There is a lot going on in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578

Ruby-red. Powerfully scented bouquet evokes cherry pit, black raspberry, licorice and cola, with a smoky overtone. Weighty and broad on entry, then tighter in the middle, offering vibrant dark berry and floral pastille flavors lifted by zesty minerality. Closes on a spicy note, with serious thrust and persistent florality.

The 2010 Pinot Noir Dierke is a big, broad-shouldered wine endowed with considerable structure and power. The flavor profile tends towards dark black cherries, but ultimately the Dierke is more about structure and minerality. Hints of earthiness, tobacco and licorice linger on the powerful finish. It should be terrific in another few years.