2009 Sea Smoke Chardonnay

The 2009 Chardonnay wraps around the palate with layers of rich, expressive fruit. This is a relatively large-scaled style for the appellation, but it works. French oak gives the Chardonnay volume and shape, but without being overbearing. An intense, textured finish makes it impossible to resist a second taste. This is a great showing. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. It had been a few years since I last tasted the Sea Smoke wines, so I was curious to check out these current releases. At their best, the Sea Smoke Pinots offer gorgeous textural richness, depth and personality. I have to say that Sea Smoke’s recent decision to add the words “California Grand Cru” to their labels is preposterous and blatantly self-serving, since the term means absolutely nothing. Moreover, this invented designation has the potential to be immensely deceiving to consumers who don’t know there is no classification – formal or informal – when it comes to California’s vineyards. A formal classification is a worthy objective. Perhaps it will one day be a reality. But if it does happen, it certainly won’t be up to wineries to classify their vineyards for us. Tel. (805) 737-1600; www.seasmoke.com