1999 Domaine Robert Groffier Père & Fils Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru

Fresh full red. Expressive aromas of wild red berries and leather turn a bit more gamey and rustic with air; strong evidence of some brett here but also good retention of ripe fruit. Then quite plush, sweet and soil-driven on the palate, and less sauvage than on the nose. Then finishes a bit dry and rustic, with the tannins cutting off the wine's remaining fruit. There's a sweetness here, but this wine--or at least this bottle--has nowhere to go.

The medium-bodied 1999 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses is medium to dark ruby-colored. Jammy blackberries and earth can be discerned in its aromatics. This wine has outstanding density to its black cherry, licorice, and blackberry-filled character. It is concentrated, powerful, yet remains refined and well-defined. Projected maturity: 2004-2010. Importers: A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris fax #011-33-1-42-55-42-93 and Atherton Wine Imports, Atherton, CA; tel. (650) 328-6639.